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Below are three reversible pattern stitches from Ms. Neighbors book which I find work well for scarves. All three are what Ms. Neighbors calls "opposite reversible" patterns. That is, one color/yarn will dominate one side of the fabric; the other color/yarn, the other side. Otherwise, the appearance of both sides are identical.
My other three criteria are met, too. Each pattern stitch has texture, either in the form of welts, gentle pleats, or pockets to trap the air, allowing one to use a lighter weight yarn without sacrificing warmth. Each set of instructions is short and easy to commit to memory. The finished scarves are attractive and definitely out of the ordinary.
For each pattern stitch, you will need two yarns (identified as A & B.) When you work these patterns, you will be knitting with one yarn per row. The other yarn is left along one edge, where is can be picked up when it is needed next.
As for what yarn to use, anything goes so long as both yarns are the same weight. For a bold look, use two strongly contrasting colors; a sophisticated, elegant look is created by using shades of the same color. It's equally fun to mix textures. Try a "smooth" yarn (silk, merino or alpaca, for example) with a "hairy" yarn (mohair or angora). A boucle or chenille might work well as one of the yarns, too.
Lastly, there is one term used in the instructions which may be unfamiliar. "Slide" means to slide the stitches to the opposite end of the circular or double-pointed needle because this is where you will find the desired yarn for the next row. Because of the construction technique requiring the need to both turn and slide the work on various rows, each of these patterns are most easily knit on dp or circular needles.
Cast on with A, slide. Row 1: With B -- Knit. Turn. Row 2: With B -- Knit. Slide. Row 3& 4: With A -- Rep Rows 1 & 2. Rep Rows 1-4.
Cast on with A, slide. Row 1: With B -- K1, * sl 1 wyif, k5; rep from * to last st, k1. Turn. Row 2: With B -- P1, * sl 1 wyib, p5; rep from * to last st, p1. Slide. Row 3: With A -- K4, * sl 1 wyif, k5; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4. Turn. Row 4: With A -- P4, * sl 1 wyib, p5; rep from * to last 4 sts, p4. Slide. Rep Rows 1-4.
Cast on with A, slide.
Be sure to keep the first stitch of each row loose.
Row 1: With B -- K3, * sl 1 wyib letting extra wrap drop (there will be
no extra wrap in the very first row), k3; rep from *. Turn.
Row 2: With B -- P1, p1 wrapping the yarn twice around needle instead of
once (double wrap), p1 * sl 1 wyif, p1, p1 with double wrap, p1;
rep from *. Slide.
Row 3: With A -- K1, * sl 1 wyib letting extra wrap drop, k3; rep from *,
ending k1. Turn.
Row 4: With A -- P1, sl 1 wyif, p1, * p1 with double wrap, p1, sl 1 wyif,
p1; rep from *. Slide.
Repeat Rows 1-4.
Note: This is a "thermal" stitch with built-in air pockets. The key to
this stitch is to use large needles, much larger than you would normally
use for the given yarn you've selected. I'd recommend US size 9 for sport
weight yarns, 10 or DK weight, and 11 for worsted weight. Strive for a
loose look which will allow the boxes to open after a little stretching
during blocking. You can use a triple wrap in rows 2 & 4 to further "open"
the boxes, too.
This series on reversible scarves will conclude with a pattern for a
self-fringing reversible scarf in Part 3.